Episode 9: Mukarampur – The Sacred Place Where Skin Diseases Are Healed
(Safar-e-Patshahi Ninth – The Martyrdom Route Journey)
Background Music: (Soft, spiritual notes unfolding slowly—as if the layers of history begin to reveal themselves one by one.)
Located nearly sixty-five kilometres from Sadaurat, Ropar, the village of Mukarampur stands as a profoundly significant historical halt on the divine martyrdom route of Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji. Two primary routes lead to this sacred destination—one from Chandigarh via Landra, and the second from Fatehgarh Sahib through the Chunni Road. The local community and the Gurudwara Management Committee have installed large information boards along the route, clearly indicating that this is the very path sanctified by Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji as He walked towards Delhi to offer His supreme martyrdom.
As one enters the village, a serene, spiritual stillness embraces the atmosphere. Moving further ahead, the magnificent structure of the Gurudwara Sahib gradually emerges—graceful, dignified, and radiant with spiritual tranquillity. The moment our team stepped inside and bowed in reverence, an indescribable sense of divine grace descended upon us—an experience that seems to flow through every grain of this sacred dust even today.
Background Music: (A gentle, soul-stirring melody in the backdrop, awakening the sacred memory of the Guru.)
The holy Sarovar situated near the Gurudwara further elevates the spiritual aura of this place. Its structure is beautiful, symmetrical, and aesthetically pleasing. The immaculate cleanliness of the premises reflects the deep devotion and commitment of the sevadars serving this Guru-ghar. Pilgrims arrive here to offer Ardas, partake in Karah Prasad, and purify their mind and body by bathing in the sanctified waters of the Sarovar.
Within the Gurudwara, a historically significant plaque is displayed—an authentic testimony to the events associated with this sacred site. A single glance at it transports the mind to that era when the footsteps of Guru-parampara blessed this very soil.
Background Music: (Soft tones—like history itself whispering its timeless tale.)
A vital part of Mukarampur’s history lives within the memories of its elderly residents. They recount that the route taken by Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji during the martyrdom journey had already been sanctified centuries earlier by Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji. The region of Kiratpur and its surroundings were already illuminated with the fragrance of Sikhi, and Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji would often halt at places where the Sangat shared a deep spiritual connection. Thus, Mukarampur naturally became one of His chosen resting points, blessed by His divine presence.
Renowned historian Dr. Bhagwan Singh ‘Khoji’ further narrates that when Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji was returning from Sri Patna Sahib towards Sri Anandpur Sahib, young Govind Rai Ji—who later manifested as Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji Maharaj—also passed through this village during the same period. He was merely seven years old at the time. Because of the uncertain and turbulent conditions prevailing then, the Guru-family halted only at places that promised trust, safety, and the support of the Sangat. Thus, Mukarampur became an essential spiritual halt for both the Ninth and the Tenth Guru.
Even when Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji was journeying towards Delhi to sacrifice His head for the protection of dharma, He continued to pause at various towns and villages along this very route, meeting the Sangat and imparting divine teachings.
If measured with modern parameters, an individual walking at an average pace covers nearly eight kilometres in an hour—making the journey from Sadaurat to Mukarampur approximately thirteen to fourteen hours on foot. It is also possible that the Guru halted at several intermediate locations—an area that continues to inspire further historical research.
The oral traditions preserved by the elders, the written plaque inside the Gurudwara, the preserved accounts of local Sangat, and the records of the Gurudwara Management Committee—all these together present a complete, authentic picture of this sacred site.
A part of history is always found in written form, but an equally powerful part lives in the memories of those who have inherited it across generations.
Mukarampur is not merely a physical location—
it is a living chapter of that divine journey,
sanctified by the spiritual austerity and grace of the Ninth Guru.
Mukarampur: The Living Oral History Narrated by the Village Elder
The revered elder of Mukarampur, Bhai Jora Singh, a resident of this village and a member of the local Gurdwara Management Committee, begins narrating the history with deep humility. He says:
“Waheguru Ji Ka Khalsa, Waheguru Ji Ki Fateh.
When we look into the history of this sacred place, the first divine event we recall is the arrival of Dhan-Dhan Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji, who blessed the hillock—locally known as Theh—that once stood here. Guru Sahib came with His family. The local Sangat humbly requested Him to partake of the meal (Prashad), but Guru Nanak Dev Patshah Ji gently replied that He would not partake food in this present form (Jama). When He arrived again in His next Jama—in the future Guru-roop—only then would He accept the Prashad.”
The history of this village does not end with the First Patshah alone.
Bhai Jora Singh continues:
“After some time, when a Sikh named Bhai Roopa was martyred in battle, the Sixth Patshah, Dhan-Dhan Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji, came to this village for shukrana (thanksgiving). Even then, when the Sangat lovingly requested Guru Sahib to partake of Prashad, He repeated the same divine words—that He would not eat in this Jama, but in the next; and that when He arrived again, He would accept all of the village’s services at once.”
Background Music: (A deep yet gentle spiritual tone—like history itself beginning to speak…)
Bhai Jora Singh further narrates:
“When Dhan-Dhan Sri Guru Gobind Singh Ji, in His childhood form as Bal Gobind Rai, was travelling from Sri Patna Sahib to Sri Anandpur Sahib, He too stayed in this village. The family here lovingly prepared Prashad and humbly requested Him to partake of it. Bal Gobind Rai Ji gave the same divine assurance—that His elders and ancestors would arrive at this place and accept the service of the Sangat. He promised that the senior members of the Guru-family would soon visit this village and bless it by accepting its humble offerings.”
When Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji began His great journey toward Delhi to offer His sacred head for the protection of dharma, He arrived in Mukarampur. At the spot where the present Gurdwara Sahib now stands, there once stood an ancient Ber tree, beneath which Guru Sahib sat and rested.
At that very moment, Mata Mai Madhi, carrying food (Prashad) for her husband Bhai Roop Chand—who was ploughing the fields—was on her way. She was a devoted soul who remembered Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji daily and prayed for deliverance from her family’s difficulties.
Seeing Guru Sahib under the Ber tree, she folded her hands and humbly requested Him to accept the food.
Guru Sahib lovingly said,
“The young man who has been ploughing since early dawn—we shall go to him.”
But Mata Ji pleaded,
“No Guru Sahib, this Prashad is only for You. I will take another meal for Roop Chand. Please accept this—it belongs to You.”
Moved by her devotion, Guru Sahib accepted two rotis, along with onion, radish, and lassi.
Afterwards, Guru Sahib walked to the fields where Bhai Roop Chand was working. When the bundle of food was opened before him, it was astonishingly untouched and fully intact. Seeing this divine miracle, Roop Chand was overwhelmed. He immediately removed the peg of his plough, stopped working, and bowed at the feet of Guru Sahib.
Mata Mai Madhi said to him,
“This is the same Guru Sahib whose Name we remember every day.”
Guru Sahib was then invited to their home, and the couple received the sacred blessing of serving Him.
This family had no children. When Guru Sahib lovingly asked them for their heartfelt wish, they replied,
“Your darshan alone is enough.”
But Guru Sahib, all-knowing and compassionate, blessed them and instructed:
“Place five bricks in your room and establish a Guru-Asthan (a sacred space).”
Soon after, the couple was blessed with children—seven in number—a divine testimony to Guru Sahib’s grace.
This village holds yet another profound historical episode.
At one time, many residents suffered from severe skin diseases. When the Sixth Patshah visited, the Sangat pleaded for relief. Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji instructed that everyone should bathe in the nearby chhapar—a natural pond that today stands as the sacred Sarovar.
By Guru’s grace, many were healed. Even today, countless devotees testify that bathing in this Sarovar brings cure from stubborn skin ailments.
This place has become a living centre of Guru-blessings—
where barren women received the gift of children,
where suffering people found healing,
and where countless devotees approach with their deepest desires and return saying:
“Guru blessed me—this is like a new life.”
In the end, Bhai Jora Singh, with deep emotion, says:
“Whoever has faith in Guru Sahib—receives His blessings without fail.”
He expresses heartfelt gratitude to historian Dr. Bhagwan Singh ‘Khoji’ and his team, who, by Guru’s grace, reached this village and played a vital role in bringing the hidden history of this sacred site to light.
He concludes with the humble prayer that Guru Sahib may keep His grace upon all and continue to shower His divine blessings upon the Sangat.
Mukarampur’s Spiritual Legacy and the Living Pulse of Gurbani
Background Music: (Deep, calm, soul-touching tones rising gently- as if the words are not spoken by humans, but voiced by history itself…)
Addressing the Sangat, Dr. Bhagwan Singh ‘Khoji’ begins:
“Jithai jāi bahai mera Satguru so thānu suhāvā Rām Rāje.” (Ang 450)
“ਜਿਥੈ ਜਾਇ ਬਹੈ ਮੇਰਾ ਸਤਿਗੁਰੂ ਸੋ ਥਾਨੁ ਸੁਹਾਵਾ ਰਾਮ ਰਾਜੇ॥” (ਅੰਗ 450)।
Meaning: Wherever my True Guru chooses to sit, that place becomes beautiful, sacred, and worthy of reverence.
Dr. Khoji explains that when a person comes under the refuge of the Guru, their worldly needs are fulfilled effortlessly. Is there anyone who has ever returned empty-handed from the Guru’s door? When the heart is pure and the intention sincere, not only this world, but even the hereafter aligns in harmony. Gurbani further reveals:
“Chāri padārath je ko māgai, sādh janā kī sevā lāgai.” (Ang 266)
“ਚਾਰਿ ਪਦਾਰਥ ਜੇ ਕੋ ਮਾਗੈ॥ ਸਾਧ ਜਨਾ ਕੀ ਸੇਵਾ ਲਾਗੈ॥” (ਅੰਗ 266)।
That is, if one desires the four blessings—Dharma, Artha, Kama, and Moksha—one must immerse oneself in the service of saints.
Worldly joys come easily; even the smallest act of service, like tending to the Guru’s footwear, can bring abundant blessings.
Dr. Khoji continues:
“When Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is themselves present here in full divine glory—Hajir-Nājir—then whatever you seek should be sought according to Gurbani:”
‘Mangṇā ta sach ikk jis tusi devai āp.’ (Ang 321)
‘ਮੰਗਣਾ ਤ ਸਚੁ ਇਕੁ ਜਿਸੁ ਤੁਸੀ ਦੇਵੈ ਆਪਿ॥’ (ਅੰਗ 321)।
Meaning: The truest prayer is that which the Divine Himself chooses to grant.
When a person bows before the Guru and offers Ardas, the essence of that prayer should be:
‘Māgna māgan neekā, har jas Gur te māgna.’ (Ang 1018)
“ਮਾਗਣਾ ਮਾਗਨੁ ਨੀਕਾ ਹਰਿ ਜਸੁ ਗੁਰ ਤੇ ਮਾਗਣਾ॥” (ਅੰਗ 1018)।
Meaning: The highest request one can ever make is to ask for the remembrance and praise of the Divine.
Small troubles, pains, and afflictions—these dissolve on their own through true service and sincere Ardas. Many call such happenings miracles, but Dr. Khoji clarifies:
“This is not a miracle. This is Guru’s benevolence—Guru’s Bakshish.”
Local elders shared that countless people have bowed here and found relief from their sufferings. A scholar may write volumes claiming such things are impossible, but when true faith awakens, what remains impossible? Blind faith is wrong, Dr. Khoji notes, but firm belief is a human being’s greatest support.
One who has no trust in Guru Sahib—no matter where he goes—cannot find true welfare.
Background Music: (Deep, serene, spiritual vibrations- as though the past is whispering through the silence…)
In this episode, another sevadar explains:
“Mukarampur is a village sanctified by the lotus-feet of Dhan-Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji. This village holds many sacred signs of Guru Sahib—other Gurudwaras, memorials of Shaheed Singhs, and a historic plaque. Though the plaque is not written by Guru Sahib’s own hand, it was penned by sevadars who traveled with Him.”
He further shares that although not many from this village joined the Sikh movement, one resident—Sardar Darshan Singh Ji, who is still alive—played a significant role. He served with dedication and even endured jail for the cause.
Another divine aspect of this village is that most families are Amritdhari, the area is largely free from intoxicants, and Sikh discipline is followed with purity and respect.
The sevadar adds:
“If any person suffering from skin disease bathes here in the Sarovar with devotion and humility, bowing at Guru Sahib’s feet, they undoubtedly receive relief. In any case, it is our duty to visit Guru’s historical sites and bow our heads.”
Background Music: (A soft, sacred tune soaked in Guru-memory flows gently in the background.)
Dr. Khoji then opens a profound chapter of history:
“Local elders have said that Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji rested under an ancient Ber tree at this place. The Ber tree, as Sangat knows, lives for many long years. Its roots give birth to fresh branches and new trees. Yet when we arrived here, we found that the ancient Ber no longer stood at its original place.”
He shares a sorrowful truth seen at many historical sites:
When new buildings are constructed, old memories—trees, markers, and priceless heritage—are often destroyed. Much later, when history begins to ache in its absence, villagers repent and lament:
“What happened to us? Why did we not value our heritage?”
To understand this deeper, Dr. Khoji asks village elder Sardar Jora Singh:
“Did the Ber tree perish on its own?”
Sardar Jora Singh replies:
“No. That ancient tree stood right near the Nishan Sahib—dense, lush, and full of shade. But when the construction of the new Gurudwara began, the village split into two opinions. One group wanted the tree to remain untouched; but the committee decided to uproot it. Many members of the Sangat protested, yet those who committed this mistake later faced bitter consequences.”
Dr. Khoji asks gently: “Is that so?”
Sardar Jora Singh continues: “Yes. Several people suffered severe illnesses—even cancer. When they realized their error, they performed Ardas. And by Guru’s mercy, the tree sprouted again from its ancient roots—now standing tall, green, and flourishing behind the Gurudwara.”
Dr. Khoji concludes:
“Sangat ji, at many places, people begin worshipping the tree instead of remembering the Guru. This should not happen. The tree is sacred because of Guru Sahib—not the other way around. We must understand this truth, though often people slip into the opposite.”
The Reborn Memory of the Ber Tree and the Eternal Grace of Guru Tradition
The elders of Mukarampur narrate that when the ancient Ber tree was uprooted during the construction of the Gurudwara Sahib, the mistake was not merely against nature—it was a painful act that erased a living memory of Guru-tradition. Instead of preserving history, people became more inclined to cut it, tear it down, and finish it forever. When future generations will ask, “Where is the tree that held the memory of Guru Sahib?”—we will have no answer left.
Yet, behold Guru Sahib’s benevolence—
From the very roots of that destroyed tree, a new branch emerged again, and today behind the Gurudwara Sahib stands a lush, flourishing Ber tree, towards which the Sangat looks with reverence and devotion.
Background Music: (Soft, spiritual tones—
as if Nature herself is reciting the memory of the Guru.)
Dr. Khoji says: “Sangat ji, those who visit this sacred place sit under this reborn tree and remember Guru Sahib. It is evident that our Guru Sahib was a deep lover of nature. Dhan-Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji planted saplings and trees with His own lotus hands at many places, and many of them still live today. When we uproot such historic trees with our own hands, does it not cause pain to Guru Sahib? Does Guru Sahib not ask—‘Why have you uprooted my roots and the trees I planted?’”
Some people ask whether a Ber tree can truly live for so long. History itself answers this question—
and to understand it, we travel to the historic town of Sasaram in Bihar.
Background Music: (Melodic, devotional tones- a tune that uplifts the dignity of the sacred site.)
In Sasaram, the ancient Ber tree still stands, and its sight fills the heart with Guru-memories. Dr. Khoji continues:
“When Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Patshah Ji, during His Malwa tour, travelled from Dhamtan Sahib to Itawa, and from there via Banaras to the home of Chacha Faggu Mal in Sasaram—history revealed itself in a vibrant, pulsating continuum.”
Addressing the Sangat, he adds:
“At that time, Guru Sahib asked Chacha Faggu Mal for his Dasvandh—one-tenth of his honest earnings. Chacha ji lovingly offered everything at Guru Sahib’s feet, but Guru Sahib said, ‘Chacha ji, you have hidden one thing from me.’
With folded hands, Chacha Faggu Mal replied, ‘Maharaj, I have given everything into your care.’
Guru Sahib then said, ‘No, one offering still remains with you.’”
Chacha Faggu Mal humbly responded: “Maharaj, I had gone to a woman’s house to receive offerings. She threw rubbish into my lap. I accepted it as well. When I sifted through it, I found a single Ber seed. That seed remained with me.”
Guru Sahib lovingly said: “Chacha ji, that very offering is what we seek.”
He then planted that Ber seed in Sasaram.
The tall, sturdy, lush Ber tree that stands there today is the living manifestation of that seed—an eternal symbol of Guru-memory.
Dr. Khoji explains: “If the Ber tree planted by Guru Sahib’s own hands in Sasaram still sways proudly today, why is it that the ancient Ber tree of Mukarampur could not survive? The answer is clear. The mistakes of certain individuals led to its destruction. Yet they also faced the consequences of those errors- many suffered severe illnesses.”
“But behold Guru’s grace- As soon as the Sangat performed true Ardas, a new tree emerged from the ancient roots. This is Guru’s benevolence- His memories can never be erased.”
Dr. Khoji further shares a verse from Gurbani:
‘Balihāri kudrat vasiaa. Tera ant na jāi lakhiaa. ॥1॥ Rahāu॥’ (Ang 469)
“ਬਲਿਹਾਰੀ ਕੁਦਰਤਿ ਵਸਿਆ॥ ਤੇਰਾ ਅੰਤੁ ਨ ਜਾਈ ਲਖਿਆ॥੧॥ ਰਹਾਉ॥” (ਅੰਗ 469)।
Meaning: I am a sacrifice to the wondrous creation in which the Divine resides; its limit cannot be perceived by anyone.
Addressing the Sangat, he adds:
“If dense trees had continued to be planted in the villages of Punjab, the destruction caused by floods today would not have been so severe. We must take a vow to protect the trees planted by Guru Sahib. We should plant new trees as well—so that Guru Sahib may be pleased, and nature may remain balanced.”
In the end, he expresses heartfelt gratitude to the Sangat of Mukarampur, the elders, and the Gurudwara Prabandhak Committee. He says:
“This sacred place lies close to both Patiala and Chandigarh. Whoever wishes to visit may come without hesitation. Here, the Langar is served with great care, and it continues almost around the clock. No devotee leaves this place hungry. The air here, the atmosphere, and the Nishan Sahib waving in the sky—all call out to you: Come, connect with the Guru’s sanctuary, and embrace the Guru’s grace in your life.”
Israheel Nagar: The Eternal Threads of History, Nature, and Guru Tradition
We are present today in the town/village of Mukarampur. This sacred place has two Gurudwara Sahibs—one situated on the outer side, and the second, an ancient Gurudwara Sahib situated within, where the footsteps of Guru-tradition still sanctify this blessed land.
Background Music: (A serene, gentle tune filled with the essence of Gurbani, bowing the atmosphere in reverence.)
Dr. Bhagwan Singh ‘Khoji’ explains that after moving ahead from Mukarampur and crossing the road, we have now reached Israheel Nagar, where atop a high mound the Gurudwara Sahib stands gracefully. He asks the local elder, Bapu ji:
“What is the history of this place? Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji, Guru Govind Sahib Ji, and Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji visited this region. In childhood, young Gobind Rai Ji also came here. Please also share how the history of Banda Singh Bahadur is connected to this sacred site?”
Background Music: (Soft, compassionate waves of Guru-memory settling gently into the heart.)
Local elder Bapu Harbans Singh Lambardar shares:
“I am a resident of this Israheel village. In our town, Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji stayed upon this mound /‘theh’ for seven days. This historical fact is clearly mentioned on the commemorative plaque displayed at Mukarampur Sahib. That plaque stands as authentic evidence that the First Master spent seven sacred days upon this land.”
He further adds that on the occasion of the 550th Prakash Purab of Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji, the Central Government granted funds for the restoration of all those Guru-locations which were part of Guru Nanak Patshah Ji’s travels. At that time, the Gurudwara Sahib situated on this mound was developed into its grand and magnificent form.
Speaking about the ancient Kareer tree standing at this site, he says:
“When Shri Shivdayal Ji (Deputy Collector) studied the history of this tree, it was discovered that the tree originally stood upon this mound of 20 feet height. I am 75 years old, and I have myself witnessed this Kareer tree spread across 44 bighas of land. But there came a time when people began removing soil from this location—some under kar seva, some police personnel, and some local individuals. During that period, the Kareer tree was repeatedly cut in ignorance. I personally saw it being dug out as deep as 20 feet and cut down—yet every time, the tree blossomed back into greenery.”
Bapu ji continues: “Now, the administration has issued clear instructions that no one is to touch this Kareer tree. This tree dates back to the time of Sri Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Ji, and that is why it becomes green and alive again and again. A protective platform has now been constructed around it. It received proper care and preservation during the 550th anniversary programmes. Through continual experience, we too realised that this tree does not revive due to ordinary reasons, but because of the timeless memories of the Guru-period.”
Bapu ji further explains: “When the local panchayat received funds, ‘Guru Ka Baag’ was established here, named ‘Guru Nanak Bagh’. After soil was removed from the mound, the entire land was levelled to form an open ground. Baba Harbans Singh Ji, through kar seva, elevated the grand building of the Gurudwara Sahib by 20 feet from the ground and constructed it in an extremely strong and divine form. Every month, the day of Masya / Amavasya is celebrated here with great devotion, love, and collective harmony. Today is also the day of Amavasya—the melody of kirtan is resounding within the Gurudwara Sahib, and the sacred service of Langar is continuously being performed. The Bhog of this Diwan will take place at 11:30 AM.”
Dr. Khoji continues: “From here, we shall now proceed towards the villages of Hasanpur, Kabulpur, and Nanheri—places where Dhan Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji had arrived. The family of the Masand, who played a distinct role during that period, still resides in these villages. Tomorrow, we shall meet them as well. We shall walk along the very path where the signs of Guru Sahib, the Hukamnamas, and historical references still exist today. Let us pause this chapter of history here for now, though the journey continues. We shall meet again in the next episode.”
In the end, addressing the Sangat with deep humility, Dr. Khoji says: “The exploration of history, the inspection of sites, the journeys across the routes, and the detailed documentation—these require significant financial resources. If you wish to support this historical narrative, the Shaheedi Marg Yatra, and the forthcoming historical endeavours, please contact the mobile number 97819 13113. Even your smallest contribution will play a vital role in bringing the glory of the Guru and the truth of history to countless people.”
Background Music: (A solemn, devotional melody—revealing the magnificence of the Guru’s character and the depth of history.)
Sangat ji- Waheguru Ji Ka Khalsa, Waheguru Ji Ki Fateh.
Yours sincerely,
Dr. Bhagwan Singh ‘Khoji’
Your humble warrior-historian.